The reality of the restaurant industry is harsh.
Where profit margins hover below ten percent, even meticulously planned risks or charming gimmicks can be costly,time-consuming and potentially lead to crippling debt.
However, when restaurants do take risks that are thoughtful and well executed we, the consumer, should try to recognize and appreciate their creativity. Take, for example, Shin Sen Gumi Restaurant Group's latest venture, Torisoba Tonsho. Opened in June 2024 as a sister restaurant to Shin Sen Gumi’s flagship brand, Hakata Ramen, Torisoba Tonsho is Shin Sen Gumi’s first attempt at a chicken-only soba restaurant, a complete departure from their pork ramen roots.
Located near the Beverly Center, Tonsho’s interior features a classic ramen bar with a full view of the bustling kitchen, charming overhead chandeliers, and sunlit window panels surrounding the entrance. The menu offers three soba dishes with a novel broth preparation method, along with traditional side dishes like gyozas, karaage, chicken salad and chicken bowls.
My favorite side dish was chicken karaage, which impressed me so much that I’d visit only for it. Its exterior is super flaky with white spots of proprietary flour mix, and the chicken cuts are so evenly sized that each fries perfectly. The first bite delivered a crisp, audible crunch, revealing a juicy and tender interior; deeply reminiscent of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had.
The main course was two soba dishes – the Dan Dan and the Lemon Butter – both mixed with an immersion blender, a handheld blender typically used for purees and smoothies. The immersion blender mixed the soba broth to create a smooth, bubbly and creamy chicken broth, similar to awa (bubble) ramen in Japan.
The Dan Dan was slightly spicy, while the Lemon Butter was a more wholesome stomach-friendly choice, perfect for an under-the-weather day.
By stepping away from traditional ramen roots, Shin Sen Gumi demonstrated thoughtful risks can result in delightful dining experiences, and as consumers, it’s essential we recognize and support such endeavors to encourage creativity in the restaurant industry.
Written by Jason Escobar | Illustrated by Rina Shin